May 8, 2020

Women in Reefing Part 1: A Tribute, A Legend, An Icon, A Titan, A Coral Lover

https://www.marinedepot.com/blog/2020/05/women-in-reefing-part-1

Co-Authored by Metrokat and Felicia McCaulley

We are excited to start a series of blogs on Women in Reefing. There are so many incredible, talented achievers in the hobby, we wanted to take the time to highlight the magnitude of their love for this hobby and what makes these women memorable.

In Part 1, we begin with a Tribute to one that we lost very recently.

Lori Johnson – A Tribute

Lori Johnson reef
Loris Reef

Lori Johnson was a prominent figure in the reef aquarium hobby for many years. She kept reef aquariums for decades; her first tank was set up in 1992 when she built her house. Lori was active on message boards and facebook groups where she helped countless hobbyists find success with their own reef tanks. She was an admin of several facebook groups – Saltwater Aquarium and Reef Keepers, Saltwater Aquarium Lounge, and Fish Doctors Reef and Aquarium Health. She was passionate about reefing and her cats – Boo, Bae, and Buddy.

lori johnson harlequin tusk
Harlequin Tusk

Lori left our world on April 9th, 2020 and will be missed by countless friends and her family. She was best known for her kind heart and her sometimes “dark” sense of humor. She was frank and honest with hobbyists about any mistakes they were making, but she was always helpful. She was a hard worker who compiled many authoritative guides on reefkeeping and medication regimens. Lori was a brilliant medical nurse for most of her life who valued peer reviewed literature and scientific evidence and applied that to her reefkeeping. She was an invaluable asset to our hobby and will be sorely missed.

Lori Johnson Torch coral
Lori loved her Torch Corals

“Lori was my online friend for many years.  Originally a customer, she purchased a large sump that was under her reef tank to this day.  She loved helping others, and was really good at connecting people with the best source to find what they needed. Her sense of humor was always there, ready to lighten the mood, but more importantly she never seemed to take offense no matter the person. The more she learned, the more helpful she was, and I often thought she reminded me of me, in the facebook world that was hers. My interaction with Lori was nearly daily, and I’m really missing having her in my chat. The funniest thing to me was how she could destroy electronics, almost like it was her superpower. We really lost a hero, and no-one will fill her spot.“
– Marc Levenson

“She was always happy to help any type of person at any stage of reefkeeping. She was as patient and generous as they come. She did things behind the scenes that no one knew about (like offering to pay vendors to send people things they needed), never seeking the recognition. She was extremely active and despite whatever she had going on in her own life always found a way to make others feel valued, heard, and cared for”
– Chris Weinreich


Joy Meadows – A Legend

Joy Meadows albert thiel gary meadows
Joy Meadows, Albert Thiel, Gary Meadows

Joy has been an avid aquarium hobbyist for nearly 4 decades starting in the late ‘70s. In 1996, with her husband Gary, she formed one of the first commercial/ retail online companies to sell live rock, corals, clams and other assorted invertebrates to the public. She still remembers that her favorite coral from the ‘80s was the Elegance. Their greenhouse facility was the first facility of its kind and helped set the standard for livestock facilities of today. Her intuitive use of lighting began during the design phase of Harbor Aquatics and continues to this day. Harbor Aquatics was so highly regarded for the quality of their livestock it became the ground for many aquarium products sold in our industry today.

joy meadows harbor aquatics green house
Harbor Aquatics Greenhouse

When Gary passed in 2000, Joy continued to manage the company till 2004 when she sold after getting burnt out. In 2002 Joy was introduced to LED lighting designer Tullio DellAquila and they formed a professional friendship implementing LED moon lights at the Harbor Aquatics facility.

In 2006 Joy Meadows teamed up with PFO Lighting to launch the Solaris.The Solaris was really the first true full spectrum LED lighting system in the hobby. In 2008 Joy Meadows teamed up with Tullio DellAquila to form what is now known as Reef Brite. Joy is VP Sales at Reef Brite.

When asked about the changes in the hobby from when she first got into it to now, Joy  observed that today’s hobbyists make it too complicated. They spend a lot on equipment and her best advice is to keep it simple. She ran a 20,000 gallon facility with just live rock and skimmers back in the 1990’s. She wants to encourage every hobbyist to read the books that are out there, her favorites are the ones published by Julian Sprung.

Joy Meadows with Carlos Chacon
Carlos Chacon and Joy

“I met Joy back in 1999 on my first visit to Harbor Aquatics. The local reef club had organized an outing. Little did I know then that I would meet someone that after 20 years, can still call a friend. From sharing a meal at Harbor Aquatics to spending Thanksgiving together, to attending industry trade shows, Joy has been an influential figure in my life. She is one of the most selfless, kind, and loving people I know. She is determined, but always making sure everyone around her feels at home. She is driven, but will not hesitate to lend a hand.  I feel fortunate to know her and will ever feel privileged to call her my friend.
Happy Mother’s Day, Joy. Love always, Carlos.“
– Carlos Chacon


Rachel Fogle – An Icon

Rachel Fogle Reefweeds Deathdopus
ReefWeeds Deathdopus

Rachel Fogle is the creative icon behind ReefWeeds, reef inspired UV art. She got into reefing in 2015 as a 10th anniversary present for both her husband, Jeff, and herself. It ended up being Rachels hobby even though Jeff continued to have his own tanks. Rachel cares deeply about all the livestock in her care and it fuels her creativity when it comes to her art.

rachel fogle reefweeds acropora walt disney
ReefWeeds Walt Disney

Rachel started ReefWeeds in 2017 as the first reef-inspired UV art in the hobby. It was interesting for her to see the industry side of the hobby since she enjoys meeting people at shows and seeing their reaction to her art in person.

rachel fogle red sea peninsula
Red Sea Reefer 500 Peninsula

Rachel’s favorite tank was a SCA 66. She loved that tank and mentions it often as the system that hit a stride she hasn’t been able to reach since. We all have faced that problem with our tanks at some point or another. Rachel currently has a Red Sea Reefer 500 peninsula which is in her studio at home. She had a wall cut out so the peninsula looks like it’s built in and can be seen from the whole kitchen as well.

rachel fogle bevo cowfish
Bevo

She enjoys keeping LPS and Softies – mushrooms, zoanthids the most out of all corals. We saw many videos and pics of ‘Bevo’, her Longhorn Cowfish. He ended up stuck in a maxi mini carpet anemone and didn’t make it unfortunately. Another of her favorite tanks was a macro algae tank and she hopes to someday have another one again.

rachel fogle reefweeds reef koi series
The Iconic Reef Koi Series

She has definitely set the trend for UV art. We can all agree that she is often imitated but never duplicated, her vision, composition, talent is #OG all the way.

rachel fogle with friend
Rachel with a friend

“A reef tank is a work of art on its own, however Rachel Fogle can translate that to canvas with a purpose and passion that is unparalleled. Many people make art but few are truly artists that embrace their muse and are able to give joy to so many through it. It is a pleasure to have been able to experience the hobby through her art, but most of all to call her a friend and inspiration.”
– Peter Cherrick, RNN


Karen Brittain – A Titan

karen brittain bandit angelfish captivebred
Bandit Angelfish

We get so excited whenever we hear of new species of fish being captive bred right? Karen Brittain is one of the incredible people we can give credit to for working on some of the most challenging fish species. Karen was born and raised in Hawaii and is a marine ornamental fish breeder specializing in breakthrough captive breeding and larval rearing. She earned her marine science degree from the University of Hawaii and for more than three decades has done some truly amazing things in the field of marine ornamental aquaculture.

karen brittain fish
Bodianus Sanguenius

Brittain gained experience during her employment at Waikiki aquarium, where she had the opportunity to do larval rearing work. Then in 1997 she formed Reef Friendly Fishes breeding and raising fish in her home in Hawaii.

karen brittain borbonius
Borbonius Anthias

She joined Rising Tide Conservation in 2013 from her facility in Hawaii to help the University of Hawaii with questions about larval rearing.

She has successfully spawned and raised some of the rarest and most sought after fish in our hobby such as the Sunrise Hogfish, Masked Angelfish, Candy Basslet, and Hawaiian Yellow Anthias. She earned the prestigious MASNA Aquarist of the year award at the New Orleans MACNA in 2017. Karen is truly a Titan in our hobby.

“Karen has been a life-long inspiration. She is the aquaculturist I always wished I could be.”
– Todd Gardner, MASNA 2013 Aquarist of the year award recipient


Nicole Helgason – A Coral Lover

nicole helgason
Steve Acropolis outdoor coral farm

Nicole Helgason is a professional scuba diver and can often be found photographing corals and sharing her passion about coral reefs around the world. Tela Honduras ranks as one of Nicole’s favorite dive spots.

Originally from Canada, she now lives in Colorado and is Reef Builders Event Manager and is responsible for running ReefStock shows in Denver and Sydney. Nicole is also a manager for Reef Builders social media accounts and runs her own blog dedicated to teaching people about corals. Nicole has a Bachelors degree in Coastal Geography from the University of Victoria.

nicole helgason diving
Sanur, Bali, Indonesia at the Ocean Gardener Coral Nursery

Nicole started the Girls With Reef Tank Group on Facebook as an empowering place for women to share their knowledge of reef keeping with others. The aquarium hobby is predominantly a male audience and sometime women are shy to post and ask questions in larger reef aquarium group pages. Sometimes the response in these groups is critical rather than helpful. The group has a mix of experiences reefs, shop owners and professionals in the aquarium hobby as well as new members just starting out.

nicole helgason
Nicole started a Coral Restoration Project in Bazaruto Island, Mozambique

Nicole is especially proud of her work on the Caribbean coral identification section of her blog. Nicole wants to inspire scuba divers to explore the reefs with new eyes. Resilient as a coral, that’s how one person describes her.

“Nikki continues to be at the top of her industry. As a PADI Dive Instructor with many years of professional dive experience, she has quickly become one of the top specialists in the world for Caribbean Coral identification as well as having the ability to identify corals from anywhere around the world. When it comes to coral restoration and coral reefs, she is one of the most passionate individuals that I ever met and is a great stewart of coral reefs around the world.”
-Lou Schiavo Jr., WWC

Apr 1, 2020

Reefkeeping During the Apocalypse

 by Felicia McCaulley for Marine Depot 

How would you keep your saltwater aquarium alive during an apocalypse? 

It’s not too difficult to keep your fish and reef alive during a power outage if you are prepared ahead of time. All you need are some battery air pumps or backup batteries capable of running powerheads and pumps. EcoTech and IceCap make long-running battery backups that can be daisy chained for more time. If maintaining the temperature is a problem, you can float bottles of hot or frozen water in the tank, changing them often to maintain the temperature. It is wise to insulate your tank with Styrofoam or blankets. Some hobbyists buy gas generators or power inverters to run their equipment if they have a larger aquarium or live in an area prone to hurricanes, blizzards, or other natural disasters. Even if your electricity is off for a few days, with a little preparation you can keep it going with no long-term effects.

Things get tricky when you’re trying to keep an aquarium alive during an apocalypse. Just like preparing to keep yourself alive, you need to prepare for your aquarium inhabitants by gathering items they will need for long term survival.

Stock up on aquarium salt, extra pumps, powerheads, lights, heaters, skimmers, impellers, gaskets and O-rings, replacement skimmer pumps, filters, filter media, even extra aquariums, stands, and sumps in case yours break. Frozen foods will likely be a lost cause at this point so it would be worth it to keep a healthy supply of dry seaweed, pellet and/or flake foods on hand. You can seal these in vacuum pack bags for long term storage. You’ll need a lifetime supply of everything, because you won’t be able to purchase these items any longer.

Most importantly, you’ll need access to clean water. Unless your well has enough water pressure, you may not be able to use your RO unit. If you do, make sure you buy an efficient RO/DI unit that makes a 1:1 ratio of product water to waste water. No one wants to stand around pumping a well for hours every day if they’re wasting 75% of the water like standard RO units do. You probably won’t be able to find much RO or distilled water jugs lying around after the apocalypse, so you would have to stick to fish and soft corals unless you’re willing to make RO water or you live near a beach. You would also be able to collect fresh, live foods for your tank, so you may as well just move to the coast right now.

The biggest challenge in keeping a saltwater tank after an apocalypse will be generating power. If the electricity is lost, it may never return in your lifetime, and you’ll be thrown back into an 1800s lifestyle. You will either need an endless supply of batteries or you’ll need a generator with an endless supply of fuel.

We can also take inspiration from Victorian aquariums that existed before electricity. Victorian era aquariums were not known for their safety or ability to actually keep fish alive. Heaters were open flames, and water movement was accomplished with “Heron Fountains” and a ridiculously complicated system designed by Hermann Lachmann in 1889. If you are so inclined to build your own fountain that works without electricity and happen to be a physicist, it may be worth looking into.

Lastly, you may be tempted to keep your tank in front of a window to help supply free lighting, but you’ll probably want to hide the fact that you have an aquarium until order is restored. Those who did not prepare for the apocalypse will not appreciate that you have been hoarding supplies, batteries, and tasty live fish while they go hungry. Your blue lights and swimming fish will be a siren song for the hungry masses and may attract zombies, so it might be a good idea to keep your tank and supplies in your secured concrete underground bunker.

Thanks for sticking with us this long.  You made it to the end so here's a small present!

Mar 22, 2020

Reef Felicia YouTube channel

Hey, Bloggers, so I started uploading more videos to YouTube last year, and hope to continue posting there.



Some topics I want to discuss in the near future:
  • How to set up a quarantine aquarium with copper
  • How to work with Loc-Line plumbing
  • The rise and fall of my Unicorn Reef Bowl
  • How to use AquaMaxx Reef Welder
Are there any other topics you'd like to see me discuss? Please leave a comment or send me an email. 


Jan 1, 2020

Xenia & Xeniids Jan/Feb 2020 CORAL magazine


 XENIA & XENIIDS: Beautiful, beguiling, and sometimes a bane

by Felicia McCaulley

Oct 20, 2019

My New Kamoer F4 Pro WiFi Dosing Pump

What have I been up to? Trying to automate as many functions on the Unicorn Reef Bowl as possible. Kamoer F4 Pro to the rescue.

Things have not been going as well for the bowl as I wish they were. Many corals have finally been recovering since the crash last year when I was stuck in the hospital for 3 weeks. Having a new baby makes it difficult to keep up with maintenance and dosing, however, and the poor bowl has been neglected. I am happy to report that most of the original corals from the 2 gallon reef jar that were moved into this bowl are still alive and doing better. I am still mourning the loss of my favorite M. setosa, but the others are healing and growing.


Calcium and Alkalinity Dosing

Something I have changed about my reef bowl routine since my last post -  I am now dosing Tropic Marin's All-For-Reef (Carbo-calcium with added trace elements). I used to be able to do near-total water changes frequently to replenish calcium and trace elements, but that wasn't working for me any longer, and I needed to start dosing, especially after the Superman Cyphastrea frag my sister gave me spread like wildfire and started sucking up so much Ca and Alk, stunting my other corals.

Tropic Marin's All-For-Reef and Carbo-calcium are awesome because they are one-part Ca and Alk dosing supplements (like Kalkwasser, but without the bad side effects or limitations).

So what am I using my Kamoer F4 Pro for? 

Kamoer F4 Pro overkill on a nano? No way. I see most folks using dosing pumps to, well, dose various supplements, elements, and foods. Since I only needed one dosing head for my All-For-Reef which takes care of my calcium, alkalinity, and trace elements, I had 3 dosing heads left over.

Feeding the Bowl

I've been using Benepets Benereef, which was reviewed by my friend Marcin on Reefs.com. I was definitely chronically underfeeding this tank for years, and my Zoas were the first to show signs of malnutrition. They've been enjoying better health since I've been using this food. I don't have to worry about overfeeding and jacking up my nitrates and phosphates with Benereef, so it's ideal for a nano/pico like this.

I also got a sample of EasySPS to try with my new doser, so I decided to use pump #2 for feeding. The best part is that it comes with a hanger and fittings for a dosing pump, so it was very easy to connect to my dosing pump.


Automatic water changes with a dosing pump

I had two dosing heads left, and I had a final problem to solve - water changes. The tubing holder that comes with the Kamoer F4 pro has tube connections on both sides, so I was able to attach some clear airline tubing that I can hide inside the bowl to draw water out of the bowl from closer to the bottom of the tank. I programmed the doser to remove 150ml of water from the bowl at 2pm each day. The water goes into a 5 gallon bucket next to the tank that I empty later. Then the last head replenishes the water from another 5 gallon bucket next to the tank full of saltwater that has a heater and powerhead constantly running to keep it fresh and oxygenated.

Dosing pumps aren't really meant for water changes, and running them constantly can wear them out faster. I would definitely not recommend using these for automatic water changes on larger tanks. Pico tanks only! If you're looking for something that can handle automatic water changes on a larger tank, check out the Smart AWC.

I love my Kamoer F4 Pro so far. It's aesthetically pleasing, so I didn't mind hanging it right above the bowl. I love the colored dosing heads, and I decided to use different colors of silicone airline tubing than the colored tubing that was provided with the doser. I wanted more "girly" colors that matched my bowl and the artwork hanging above the bowl better. I'll keep you all updated on the Unicorn Reef Bowl, as always.


May 29, 2019

Why is my protein skimmer overflowing?

https://youtu.be/V5wbMJBAFQc


 “Why is my protein skimmer overflowing?” - This is one of the most common questions asked in reef keeping and today we are going to look at the reasons why.


#proteinskimmer #proteinskimmeroverflowing #proteinskimmeroverflow

The good news is that an overflowing skimmer is not broken or defective. Let’s talk a bit more about protein skimmers to help us understand how they work and what can cause them to overflow.

When food, livestock waste, or any decomposing organic matter breaks down in your aquarium, it forms organic compounds in the water column. Each molecule of these compounds has one side which is positively charged, and one side which negatively charged. These charges are the reason you may see an oily film on the surface of tanks that don't use a protein skimmer. One side of the molecule is attracted to the water while the other (side of the molecule) is repelled by it, drawing them to the surface.

Just as the charged waste molecules are attracted to the surface of the water, they are also attracted to the surface of the tiny bubbles created by your skimmer.

As the bubbles rise through the skimmer body, they collect these waste molecules. Once they reach the top, they form a foam that will overflow into the skimmer cup and can be easily removed.

Occasionally, the skimmer can overproduce foam, quickly filling the cup and resulting in an overflow.

Within the first two to four weeks, it pretty standard for your skimmer to overflow. Until the body builds up the appropriate "biofilm", the skimmer tend to act pretty erratically.

Adding activated carbon to your filtration and doing additional water changes will reduce the viscosity of your water, causing less foam and fewer overflows.

It's also pretty standard for skimmers to overflow during tank cycles. Since there typically isn't much waste in the tank during this period, its ok to just leave your skimmer off until the tank is cycled.

Outside of removing waste from your water, another benefit of skimmers is that they heavily oxygenate your water. If you still want this oxygenation during your tank cycle, feel free to leave your skimmer on and just remove the collection cup.

Whenever you add new chemicals to your tank, they are going to change your water chemistry. As skimmers are very finely tuned, even the smallest changes can affect their performance and will often result in an overflow.Some of these overflow perpetrators include Water conditioners, bacteria mixes, oily foods, medications, and frag epoxies, but the list goes on.

Another culprit that tends to fly under the radar is fresh filter socks. Often times when filter socks are produced, they will have some sort of residue left over on them from manufacturing. When introduced to your tank, this can unfortunately get into your water and cause your skimmer to go crazy. A quick rinse of the socks before installation will fix this problem and make your life much easier.

Even household cleaning solutions such as soaps and air fresheners sprayed near the tank can change your water chemistry just enough to trigger an overflow.

Again, carbon is your best friend here and is great for pulling these undesirable chemicals out of your tank.

If you are introducing medication directly to your main tank, expect your skimmer to go haywire. Unfortunately, the skimmer is going to overflow until you are done medicating and all of the excess chemicals have been pulled out either via carbon or water change.

Remember to always check your skimmer’s user manual for its recommended water level. Although nearly every skimmer allows you adjust its internal water level, this can only go so far. If the water level in your sump is too high it will elevate the foam to a point where there is too much running into the cup, once again resulting in an overflow.

If you find that your water level is too high, a number of companies sell skimmer stands just for this reason.

Make sure to keep up on your regular maintenance as well. Just soaking the pump parts in a vinegar and water solution and giving them a quick scrubbing with a toothbrush will greatly increase your skimmers performance. Don’t forget to clear your venturi’s airline of any blockages as well.

If you find yourself with an overflowing skimmer, just remember to ask, "what's changed?"

Have you recently done a major water change or started dosing medication? Did you just switch out your filter socks or change to a new frozen food? Did you see the first spots of ICH on your fish and dose and medicate your tank in a panic? The simplest way to solve a overflowing skimmer is just to figure out what is different from before.

Let us know your experiences with overflowing skimmers and how you handled them in the comments below. If you found this video helpful, please share it with your friends and don’t forget to subscribe for similar videos. As always, Take care and enjoy the reef-keeping journey.

May 24, 2019

Fluconazole for Green Hair Algae & Bryopsis: How To Treat Your Tank with Flux Rx from Blue Life USA

Fluconazole for Green Hair Algae & Bryopsis: How To Treat Your Tank with Flux Rx from Blue Life USA

 https://https://mdshop.us/FluxRx Today we are going to focus on green hair algae and how to get rid of it using Flux Rx from Blue Life USA


Hair algae Derbesia and Bryopsis, have always been a major nuisance for reef aquarists. Given adequate lighting and nutrients, these algae can quickly grow out of control and smother our precious corals.

Getting rid of hair algae has always been a hassle. Manual removal is typically the go-to for getting rid of algae. But water changes, media reactors, refugiums, and algae scrubbers are also used to reduce nutrient levels. Once the algae really takes hold, these approaches unfortunately may not be enough.

You can also look into stocking fish and inverts that are known to eat algae; however, relying on animals to take care of this issue is often questionable as you can’t guarantee what they will want to eat. Many of these algae eating species have also been known to pick at coral polyps while others such as the sea hare will release toxins when they are scared or dying.

If typical methods aren’t solving your hair algae problem, it may be time to look at Flux Rx from Blue Life USA. Fluconazole, which is the active ingredient in Flux Rx, has been used by professional aquarists to remove hair algaes successfully for years. Unfortunately it’s pretty tough to find a reliable source for fluconazole and even more difficult to dose it properly. Blue Life USA Flux Rx puts the algae fighting power of fluconazole into the hands of aquarists in a way that is simple to use. The major bonus of Flux Rx is that it is reef safe. After testing it on our tanks we saw no negative effects on our corals or other sensitive inverts.

One thing to keep in mind is that Flux Rx will only target Bryopsis and Derbesia, so it likely won’t take out other types of hair algae like turf algae. The active ingredient in Flux Rx is thought to stop these algaes by blocking important enzymatic pathways and disrupting integrity of the algae’s cell walls. Some reefers have reported that macro algaes can be affected by Flux Rx so if you are running chaeto or other macros in a refugium it would be best to remove them while treating your tank. This also means that if you are running a algae reactor or algae scrubber, you would temporarily need to remove them as well.

Always remember to remove media reactors and carbon filters from your system to make sure that it doesn’t immediately remove the Flux Rx from your tank after dosing. It's also recommended to turn your skimmer off when you begin dosing as it will likely begin to overflow. Once the algae starts to break down after about 72 hours and release the nutrients, you can turn your skimmer back on.

When dosing, noticeable results may begin in the first couple days of treatment. Certain strains of algae may be a bit more resilient so they may take a bit longer to be affected. After the full 10-14 the results will be apparent. Once you pass the 14 day treatment period, do a 20% water change and feel free to start reintroducing your reactors and filters.

It is fairly easy to reintroduce the algae back into your tank so it is a good idea to give any equipment that you are reinstalling a quick wipe down with vinegar and to change out your filter media. Doing so will remove any algae traces that may be left over from before the treatment. Even after the algae is eliminated, its important to continue keeping an eye on nutrient levels as they can open the door to another algae infestation.

Blue Life also makes the regenerable medias, Phosphate Fx and Organic Fx to help you out on this front as well.

Let us know about your experience will nuisance algae down in the comments below and please share this video if you found it helpful. Don’t forget to like and subscribe, and as always take care and happy reefkeeping.

#fluconazole #greenhairalgae #bryopsis

Buy Flux Rx at Marine Depot (and read product reviews!): https://www.marinedepot.com/Flux_Rx_Bryopsis_and_Green_Hair_Algae_Treatment_Blue_Life_USA-BL0118-FIADAL-vi.html

Buy Blue Life USA's Regenerable Resin Medias at Marine Dpeot: https://www.marinedepot.com/search?tag=regen-media-blue-life-usa

Dec 3, 2018

Acropora Facts You Probably Didn't Know



Acropora coloration - it’s all about the symbionts

A beautiful and rewarding relationship between stony corals and single celled dinoflagellate algae began sometime in the late Triassic over 200 million years ago. Corals formerly relied solely on food capture with their polyps for energy, making them slow growers. Adopting these algae cells called Zooxanthellae allowed corals to utilize both photosynthesis and food capture for faster reef-building growth, which led to the creation and evolution of our now irreplaceable, essential reef ecosystems. Acropora corals first appeared during the Eocene Epoch 37 to 54 million years ago, the beginning of our story.  

Acropora coloration is in part due to these symbiotic zooxanthellae, which are plant-like cells, that live within their tissues. The coral produces CO2 and H2O, and the zooxanthellae use these for photosynthesis which in turn feeds the coral polyps. In captivity, dark brown or green Acropora are usually a result of overfeeding the zooxanthellae organic matter with high concentrations of nitrate and phosphate in the tank water. Excessively bright lighting or high temperatures can cause “bleaching,” which is when the zooxanthellae leave the coral, making its tissue nearly transparent and exposing the white skeleton beneath.

It isn’t fully understood why corals produce fluorescent coloration which is visible under actinic lighting in aquariums. UV light found in some LED lights and metal halide lights can bring out the protective fluorescent blue, purple, and pink pigments of shallow-water Acropora. Deeper water corals may produce fluorescent pigments to provide more light to their photosynthetic symbionts.

In addition to Zooxanthellae, there are other symbionts working with Acropora to process nutrients and influence their coloration. Little known fungus-like protists called Thraustochytrids may be responsible for some of the fluorescent proteins found in Acropora and other corals.


It’s almost impossible to identify captive grown Acropora

Identification of captive grown Acropora corals is difficult and in most cases, futile. Even experts who have studied wild Acropora for a lifetime can’t identify a captive Acropora with any certainty. We hobbyists have managed to change the coloration and morphology of our Acropora corals using unnatural conditions, making them nearly unrecognizable. This difficulty is compounded when faced with identifying tiny frags or small colonies. When you see an Acropora identified by scientific name in the hobby, chances are it’s just an educated guess.




The fastest growing Acropora are staghorns

The general consensus among aquarists is that the Green Slimer Acropora yongei is the fastest growing Acropora coral in captivity today. Acropora yongei branches on the Great Barrier Reef have been recorded growing as much as 4.3” during a 15 week summer. That’s more than an inch a month!


Image found at [1]. Created by NOAA's Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary


Acropora palmata form the largest Acropora colonies

The largest Acropora species is the rare and endangered Acropora palmata from the Caribbean, which typically grows to over 13 feet across, 6.5 feet high, and with a base of 1.3 feet thick.




Acropora corals are easy to frag

Despite being considered one of the most difficult corals to keep in captivity, Acropora corals are surprisingly easy to frag. Thin branches can be carefully broken with your hand, but thicker branches should be cut with a pair of stainless steel “bone” or coral cutters. If you have a coral wet saw, you can frag large colonies quickly.

Small frags can be superglued to plugs. Frags will stick better if the plug is dry. If you want branches to be glued to plugs in an upright position, use plugs with holes drilled in the center that are slightly larger in diameter than the branch. It is also possible to glue a branch horizontally onto a flat plug. Hold the coral for about 30 seconds to set the glue, then carefully place the plug in a frag rack until it cures. Larger frags may need epoxy and superglue to secure them into a hole in live rock. New frags can be traded or sold when the flesh starts to encrust onto the plug.


Big R Corals Walt Disney Acropora tenuis photo credit Coralust


Pedigreed Acro frags can cost more than a month's mortgage

One of the most sought after and expensive Acro frags is the Jason Fox Homewrecker Acro frag retails for $999.99. Many hobbyists were skeptical of its extremely bright coloration in photos, some calling it “Photoshopped.” Those who saw the frags in person at MACNA 2017 in New Orleans will attest to the accuracy of photos of this unbelievable coral.

A modestly expensive and sought after Acropora frag is Mike Biggar’s of Big R Corals Walt Disney Tenuis Acropora frag. A ¾” frag of this blue and pink A. tenuis with yellow polyps retails for $199.99.

Possibly the most expensive Acro frag today is a ½” RR’s Bleeding Avenger Acro which retails on Cornbred’s site for $1999.99. Two. Thousand. For a half inch.

Those on a budget should not discount the value of the $5 brown Acropora frags in the local fish store’s sale bin. With some TLC and proper conditions, that tiny brown frag could regain bright coloration and eventually become a cherished show piece.


Acropora efflorescens - an unusual growth form for an Acropora

There’s more to Acropora than branching

We tend to think of Acropora corals as being “branchy,” but the nearly 150 different species of Acropora have 7 distinct growth forms - tables/plates, staghorn, bushy, massive, bottlebrush, corymbose, and digitate. Some of the most sought after are the deepwater bottlebrush forms like Acropora echinata and the tabling forms like Acropora hyacinthus.
Digitate Acropora coral


Acropora can share and adopt new Zooxanthellae

The Shedd Aquarium in Chicago reported that their Caribbean Acropora corals were adopting Zooxanthellae from the Pacific species. The spawn collected A. palmata frags they housed in the same system with Pacific Acropora started sporting new purple polyps, and DNA test results proved the Zooxanthellae were Pacific in origin. Zookeepers and public aquarists lament the delicate nature and difficulty of A. palmata and cervicornis. Could introducing Pacific Zooxanthellae to Caribbean Acropora make the corals hardier?




Acropora corals are unique, important ecosystems

Acropora are called “reef-building” corals because they form hard skeletons that create important habitats for countless reef fish and invertebrates and nurseries for reef fish and large open water fish fry. One billion people world wide depend on coral reefs economically. A collapse of coral reef ecosystems would have devastating consequences, and its effects would be felt by every living human.

Even small colonies of Acropora corals can host many varieties of species. Tetralia and Trapezia crabs are symbiotic defenders of Acropora corals, feeding on coral mucous and chasing away predators. Polychaete worms and feather dusters, barnacles, crabs, shrimps, commensal shell-less hermit crabs, tiny fish like coral gobies and coral crouchers, copepods, amphipods, flatworms, sponges, and tunicates have all been known to make their homes either inside or underneath the safety of Acropora colonies. Dr. Ronald Shimek reports in the July/August 2018 issue of CORAL magazine that in a single large Acropora hyacinthus colony is likely to house several thousand species of symbionts.




Acropora in the wild need our help

American Acropora palmata and Acropora cervicornis were once some of the most common stony corals in their respective ranges in the Caribbean, Florida keys, Gulf of Mexico and Bahamas, but populations have declined by estimates of up to 95% in the last 30 years. Their rapid decline has been attributed to climate change and pollution, which makes the Acropora susceptible to other threats like disease. Climate change also increases coral damaging hurricane frequency and severity and higher ocean surface temperatures which contribute to coral bleaching events.

Serratia marcescens, a pathogenic, gram negative bacteria commonly found in the gastrointestinal tract and other mucosal surfaces of humans, causes a disease specific to A. palmata called white pox disease. Other diseases that plague A. palmata and A. cervicornis are Black band disease and White band disease which can also decimate entire populations quickly. Black band disease is caused by Cyanobacteria and bacteria infecting coral tissue. White band disease is not well studied, but experts believe there are many types that may be caused by several species of bacteria such as Vibrio harveyi and/or ciliate parasite Philaster lucinda.

All Acropora are listed under CITES appendix II, and many are threatened. Other species of Acropora that are endangered according to the IUCN red list are A. rudis and A. suharsoni.

There is little hope for the recovery of American Acropora species, but organizations like the Coral Restoration Foundation are not ready to give up. Ken Nedimyer and his team frag, grow, and redistribute healthy Elkhorn corals. They use innovative techniques like hanging frags on elevated trees to prevent them from being smothered by sediment or exposed to pathogens. If you’d like to help out, please visit their website www.coralrestoration.org.

Veron Corals of the World Volume 1