Clownfish Aquarium Photos

I recently went to visit a friend of mine and photographed her aquarium. Enjoy the photos! These are best viewed large on Flickr (click the photo then choose "view all sizes" in the "actions" drop down box).

Support U.S. and Local Seahorse Breeders

Support U.S. bred seahorses and your own local seahorse breeders. Encourage your local fish store to buy locally bred/U.S. bred seahorses and support them when they do. If your local fish store only carries "tank raised" Asian-bred seahorses, you can order seahorses directly from a local breeder or a reputable breeder online.

SUPPORT THESE U.S. SEAHORSE BREEDERS

Seahorsesource.com in Ft, Pierce, Florida
Professional family run business for over five years
Current availability: H. erectus, H. barbouri, H. zosterae and a limited amount of H. reidi. H. ingens should be available again in January. Ships to all 50 United States.

SeahorseCorral.net in Riverview, Florida
Current availability: H. erectus. Ships to United States.

Peka's Ponies in Lake in the Hills, Illinois
Current availability: H. erectus. Coming soon: H. reidi and H. barbouri. Ships to lower 48 United States.

Mandy R. in southern Wisconsin
H. erectus coming soon. Can ship to lower 48 United States.

Kim at CritterHeaven in Raleigh, North Carolina
Current availability: H. reidi and H. erectus. coming soon H. barbouri and H. zosterae. Can ship to lower 48 United States.

Brenda F. "Reef99" in Illinois
Current availability: H. erectus. Can ship to lower 48 United States.

Felicia's Saddled Seahorses in Philadelphia, PA
H. erectus coming soon.

FishTalPropogations Availability: H. erectus coming soon

If you are a seahorse breeder in the United States and you want to be added to this list, please email me with your web address and/or business contact email address, your location and if/where you ship to, your current availability, and seahorse species you will have available in the near future. If you are looking for the most current seahorse availability from local breeders, check the Seahorse.org Trading and Classifieds forum regularly.

The reasons to buy true captive bred seahorses instead of wild caught seahorses are obvious, and I won't go into much detail here. Wild caught seahorses have as many as four long, stressful journeys before they reach your home and almost always carry life-threatening pathogens, many that can't be cured with over the counter medications available to hobbyists. Wild caught seahorses only eat expensive live foods and are difficult (and sometimes impossible) to train to eat frozen food. The choice is clear; buy true captive bred seahorses.

Why buy seahorses from a hobby breeder or a breeder who specializes in seahorses?

from Seahorsesource. photo: Jim Bremner DesertUSA.com

• Breeders specializing in seahorses are more likely to offer multiple/different species of seahorses
• Seahorse specialists are able to devote more time and research to seahorse-specific care
• Small operations can pay more attention to quality and health
• Many offer lifetime customer support
• Some offer seahorse-specific products that can't be found anywhere else
• Seahorses purchased directly from hobby breeders are often less expensive than wild caught seahorses

Asian bred seahorses are cheaper than U.S. captive bred seahorses, but the quality and health of the seahorses suffers. Asian bred seahorses are sold younger and smaller than U.S. bred seahorses and are raised in unfiltered natural sea water, exposing them to parasites, disease, and bacteria. Asian bred seahorses are fed live foods found in the natural sea water, further cutting costs by not having to buy frozen food. U.S. bred seahorses are usually started on frozen foods at a very early age, which makes them less likely to revert to live foods when they are under stress. Not all Asian seahorse breeders use these methods, but the majority of Asian-bred "tank raised" seahorses found in local fish stores were raised this way.

young Asian bred "H. kelloggi" in a WI pet store. Photo: Dylan of seahorse.org

Why buy seahorses bred in the U.S. over seahorses bred overseas?

• U.S. bred seahorses have a much better history of success in their new homes
• Less stressful transit time compared to seahorses bred in other countries
• Asian bred seahorses may be packaged and shipped 3 or 4 times before getting to the hobbyist
• ex. breeder > transhipper > wholesaler > fish store
• Local seahorses have shorter fasting (withholding food) times prior to and during shipping 
• More accurate identification
• No accidental, unknown hybrids
• Asian breeding programs do not commonly separate by species, putting many different species in the same vats together. Seahorses may even hybridize with species naturally found in surrounding waters
• Seahorses bred in the U.S. are bred in filtered or synthetic sea water, while most Asian-bred seahorses are raised in unfiltered natural sea water.
• U.S. bred seahorses have less exposure to parasites and disease found in NSW
• U.S. bred seahorses are already adapted to captive aquarium environment
• U.S. bred seahorses are raised on foods readily available to hobbyists
• Most Asian bred seahorses are raised on live foods found in NSW to save money and are offered frozen foods later in life. May or may not be trained to frozen food.
• U.S. bred seahorses are larger, older, and more mature, thus more likely to survive
• Asian bred seahorses are sold younger and smaller to save money

young Asian bred seahorse. Photo from reefhotspot.com

How can you tell if the seahorse at your local fish store was bred in Asia?

• The seahorse is small, usually three inches or smaller
• The seahorse is identified only by common name or color (they are often identified this way on wholesale lists)
• Scientific names commonly used for Asian bred seahorses are
• Hippocampus kelloggi (none are CB in the U.S. to date)
• Hippocampus sp. (responsible breeders know what species they have)
• Hippocampus kuda
• Hippocampus comes
• The fish store doesn't know what country or breeder the seahorse came from, only knows that it was "tank bred" or "tank raised" 
• Since Asian bred seahorses are so inexpensive for the LFS to buy, sometimes the price is very low (between $30 - $50 each) 
• You can expect a true captive bred seahorse to be between $50 and $75 or more depending on the species

Because of the restrictions put on importing wild caught seahorses by CITES, fewer species are available in the United States today than were available 10 years ago. For example, Australian seahorses such as H. breviceps and H. whitei are completely absent from the U.S. market, and wild-caught H. elongatus and H. angustus are imported in extremely low numbers, fetching very high prices with low survival rates. Many of these beautiful Australian species were available as captive bred in the U.S. as recently as a few years ago, but it is theorized that these higher priced exotic seahorses couldn't compete with the cheap Asian bred seahorses that were flooding the U.S. market at the same time. If we do not support seahorse breeders in the United States, in the future the only species available will be Asian-bred seahorses and the few species native to our country that can still be sold as wild caught.

Seahorse Tank - Keep It Clean!

When I first started raising seahorses I got probably the best piece of advice from Dan U. of seahorsesource.com. Dan told me not to let the seahorse fry eat food that had settled on the bottom of the tank by adjusting the flow to keep the food in constant motion."Dead" food like frozen mysis shrimp start to decay immediately and can collect large amounts of bacteria shortly after hitting the floor of a tank. The theory is that seahorses never evolved the GALT (gut-associated lymphoid tissues) in the gut to be able to eat decaying food and can suffer from bacterial infections as a result of eating frozen food diets combined with improper conditions.

seahorse fry who eat food off the floor are more likely to die before reaching the juvenile stage

"A hypothesis is discussed that the adaptive immune system of vertebrates evolved in the gastrointestinal regions of primitive jawed fish (placoderms) due to increased localized injuries and infections which were inadvertently brought about by the novel jaw structures and the predatory life style...Initial study of the seahorse (Hippocampus) indicates that the gut-associated immune tissues may be absent in this teleost species, suggesting an evolutionary link between the adaptive immune system and the jaw structure or eating habit."

-summary of Jaw Hypothesis and the Seahorse by Matsunaga T., Rahman A.

In the wild seahorses do not eat dead, decaying food; they only eat live food. Seahorses obviously have some sort of immune system but do not have the gut-associated immune tissue that protects from bacteria that naturally settle on decaying matter (frozen mysis shrimp). Both benign and infectious bacteria (such as Vibrio spp.) are always present in even the cleanest aquariums and in nature. Once a piece of frozen mysis shrimp comes into contact with the bottom of the aquarium, bacteria begin to colonize and break it down almost immediately. When a seahorse eats a piece of frozen mysis shrimp that has been sitting on the floor of the tank too long, it may not get sick right away. The bacteria passes through its gut and is present in the feces which may then contaminate the next meal. Any seahorse that eats the resulting feces-contaminated food is at high risk for bacterial infection. This is why it is important to siphon before and after each feeding.

Keep your seahorse tank clean, and keep the temperature below 74°F

It is much easier to keep a bare bottom seahorse tank clean than a reef-style seahorse tank. A pair of seahorses in a very large tank are less likely to come into contact with their feces, and the clean-up crew usually takes care of any uneaten food. The more seahorses in an aquarium, the more important it is to keep it clean. Scrub the floor and walls of the aquarium daily to prevent buildup of organic material settling there. Siphon feces before each feeding, and siphon uneaten frozen foods immediately after feeding. Clean filters and all tubing at least once a month. keep concentrations of nitrates, phosphates, and organics as close to 0 ppm as possible, as these favor the growth of infectious bacteria and cause stress on the seahorse immune system. Using a UV sterilizer, Protein Skimmer, and strong filter can also help keep the water clean. Have enough current and water flow in all areas of the tank so that "dead zones" of little or now flow are not allowed collect organics and grow bacteria.

You can do a lot to prevent bacterial infections in your seahorse aquarium by keeping temperatures lower than 74°F. Vibrio spp. bacteria become more virulent and aggressive at higher temperatures, while significantly slowing growth at temperatures below 68°F. Vibrio bacterial infections are now one of the leading causes of captive seahorse deaths. If Vibrio can be spread through frozen food that sits on the aquarium floor too long, this may be why seahorses who are fed a diet of live foods are more likely to survive in aquariums with higher temperatures than seahorses who are fed frozen foods.



Further reading:

http://www.angelfire.com/ab/rayjay/temperature.html 

Keeping multiple species thread on Seahorse.org (sign in to view topic)

Seahorse Heater Burn

A Felicia's Aquarium Adventures reader, Jim Bremner of www.desertusa.com (very cool website, worth a look), was kind enough to share the story and photos of his seahorse that was badly burned by an aquarium heater. Jim is an avid aquarium keeper, but is fairly new to seahorses. In all his extensive research, he never found advice about not keeping a heater in a seahorse tank. Truly, this small but very important piece of advice is often left out of seahorse care articles.

Aquarium heaters can and do burn seahorses, and it is a life-threatening situation. Most seahorse aquariums do not require aquarium heaters, as seahorses do best in temperatures lower than 74°F. If you need a heater in your seahorse tank to raise or stabilize the temperature, use an inline heater, a heater guard, or place the heater in a sump.

Jim was able to successfully keep his seahorses in a tank with a heater for a couple months without incidence. But perhaps with the onset of cooler weather in December, the heater was turning on more often and running hotter. The male seahorse must have been hitched to the heater for too long while it was running particularly hot, and he got a very bad burn on his tail and part of his pouch that were touching the heater.

This is what a heater burn looks like. Notice that the skin has been burned away but is not swollen or infected. With any kind of burn or injury, Vibrio bacterial infection can set in very quickly and aggressively, so it's best to get the seahorse moved to a hospital tank with a controlled temperature no warmer than 68°F. Have the proper antibiotics on hand (Triple Sulfa or Furan-2 combined with Neomycin) and keep a close eye on the burn for sings of infection. If the white area gets larger or changes in appearance, start treating with anti-biotics. Use the full course of antibiotics, even if the seahorse appears to be fully healed. Give the seahorse soft airline tubes to hitch on (if he will hitch), keep the lights dimmed, and avoid sudden movements around the tank. If the seahorse stops eating, offer live mysis or enriched live adult brine shrimp.

Jim did everything he could to save his seahorse, but unfortunately, the seahorse did not survive. Thanks again to Jim for sharing his photo and story with us. Maybe his experience will help save the lives of other seahorses.

Dwarf Seahorses - Seahorsesource.com makes it easy

Dwarf Seahorses Hippocampus zosterae are sturdy and easy to keep, but there is one drawback - they require live food. The easiest live food to grow for them is baby brine shrimp, but it is best/easiest to  decapsulate (remove the outer shell) and enrich before feeding to seahorses. The outer shells of baby brine shrimp are thought to introduce pathogens and ciliates that could be harmful to your Dwarf Seahorses. Also, the shells can become lodged in the digestive tract of a Dwarf Seahorse if accidentally eaten.

a male Dwarf Seahorse

I used to decapsulate my own brine shrimp, but I found it messy, time consuming, and wasteful. I found already decapsulated brine shrimp on Seahorsesource.com and decided to give it a try. The decapsulation is done in a lab under a microscope to ensure quality and high hatch rate, so it is MUCH cleaner and less wasteful. 

A female Dwarf Seahorse

Since brine shrimp (Artemia) are not from a marine environment, they are lacking in essential highly unsaturated fatty acids HUFA that seahorses require to live. Brine shrimp should be enriched with HUFA before being fed to the seahorses. I used to use super HUFA, which is an excellent aquaculture-grade enrichment, but it is expensive. I switched over to Dan's Feed and have had wonderful results. I even used it to enrich adult brine shrimp I was giving to my breeding pairs of Erectus seahorses, and their fecundity noticeably increased. The adults are now bigger and healthier with more muscle mass, and their fry are healthier with fewer "floaters" at birth.

Dwarf Seahorses are very tiny! The picture below shows two adult Dwarf Seahorses next to a regular toothbrush.

Dwarf Seahorses next to a regular toothbrush

If you are interested in keeping Dwarf Seahorses, check out the Dwarf Seahorse forum on Seahorse.org. There you will learn everything you could ever possibly want to know about Dwarf Seahorses, including what tank size, tank mates, and foods are suitable for Dwarf Seahorses. There is also an active community of Dwarf Seahorse keepers there who are pushing the envelope and experimenting with different Dwarf Seahorse keeping ideas.

disclaimer: I'm a big fan of Seahorse.org and Seahorsesource.com, but I do not work for them, and I'm not getting paid to tell you about their products.

Ocellaris Clownfish

Want to learn more about the Ocellaris Clownfish? Read more on ReefTools.com

Seahorses and Vibrio

The Vibrio bacteria that infect seahorses and pipefish are temperature dependent. Keeping seahorses in a chilled aquarium can greatly reduce the risk of infection or death by Vibrio bacteria.

Different species of seahorses from different parts of the world may be more or less resistant to Vibrio bacteria based on the temperatures of their native environments. The Atlantic Ocean is warmer than other oceans by about 16°F. Hippocampus erectus, H. zosterae, H. reidi and other seahorse species in the Atlantic may have had to adapt by developing stronger immunity to Vibrio bacteria, as warmer temperatures encourage growth of Vibrio, exposing the seahorses to a higher percentage of Vibrio bacteria in their environment than seahorses in other parts of the world. This may explain why H. erectus seahorses, one of the most common seahorse species in the U.S., have been identified as asymptomatic carriers of Vibrio, and when introduced to other species of seahorses can cause severe Vibrio outbreaks.

a beautiful temperate H. elongatus seahorse

Seahorses coming from sub-tropical or temperate zones may have little to no resistance to Vibrio bacteria, especially those strains found in tropical waters. This is why it is so important to keep cool-water seahorse species at their recommended temperature and not to keep them at tropical temperatures even for a short period. Keeping cool-water seahorses with tropical seahorses, especially those from a different ocean, can expose them to strains of Vibrio to which they have no immunity.

There are steps you can take to prevent Vibrio bacterial infections in your aquarium. Invest in one or two good aquarium chillers. Steadily maintain your main tank temperature between 68°F - 74°F for tropical species. A bare bottom aquarium will help prevent build up of bacteria. Scrub the sides and bottom of the tank. Siphon feces before each feeding, and siphon uneaten food shortly after each feeding. A slightly over sized protein skimmer will help maintain water quality.

It is not recommended to mix together different species of seahorses and/or pipefish. Vibrio bacteria can even be transferred via your hands, fish nets, containers, and feeding syringes. If you plan to mix different species of seahorses or pipefish together, you are taking a risk, but you can help to minimize potential infections by quarantining your new arrivals for at least 6 weeks, preferably several months. The new seahorses must be eating perfectly and be in perfect health before introducing them to the main tank, so quarantine for as long as it takes. A UV Sterilizer could theoretically be used to "inoculate" the new seahorses to your existing seahorses' bacteria and vice versa. There is absolutely no fail-safe way to mix seahorse and/or pipefish species together and ensure they will not succumb to Vibrio infection or other transferable disease or infection.

If your tropical species of seahorse develops white, fuzzy patches of eroded skin, especially on the snout or tail, it is likely a Vibrio bacterial infection. Immediately move the seahorse to a bare bottom, sterile 10 gallon hospital/quarantine tank (or simple, plastic Sterilite storage tub/container) with a couple plastic hitches at a temperature of 68°F. Go to the Seahorse.org Emergency forum and start a thread asking for advice; include answers to these questions. Make sure you have the necessary antibiotic medications on hand such as Triple Sulfa or Furan 2 combined with Neomycin. Aggressive Vibrio infections can spread quickly and kill in as little as 24 hours, so act immediately to resolve the issue.

Temperature Affects Marine Vibrio Bacteria

Vibrio is a genus of marine bacteria found in clams, shellfish, corals, Syngnathids, and Cholera in humans (There are even benign species such as Vibrio Fischeri responsible for bioluminescence in some species of squid and fish). Vibrio cholerae infects humans, Vibrio coralliilyticus infects certain stony corals, and Vibrio spp. infect seahorses and other Syngnathids. The preferred temperature range for growth and the temperature at which virulence increases of each of these three infectious Vibrio species is strikingly similar.

The optimal temperature for Vibrio cholerae survivability and abundance is between 68°F and 86°F. Scientists fear that global warming trends may steadily increase the number of Cholera outbreak cases. It is not surprising that Vibrio coralliilyticus and the Syngnathid-specific strains of Vibrio spp. also favor temperature conditions between 68°F and 86°F.

The Magic Numbers

The recent findings of researchers at the Hollings Marine Laboratory in Charleston, South Carolina reported by CORAL magazine (Jan/Feb 2010) show that infectious strains of Vibrio coralliilyticus linked to coral-bleaching events of small polyp stony corals are temperature dependent. Similar to the Vibrio spp. strains that infect seahorses, Vibrio coralliilyticus does not normally cause disease in healthy coral specimens at a temperature of 75°F, but becomes pathogenic at higher temperatures. Temperatures above 80°F increase the acceleration and severity of the infection.

Not much research has been done on the Syngnathid-specific strains of Vibrio, but for years seahorse aquarists have noticed a correlation between high temperatures and Vibrio bacterial infections in their pets. In the book Working Notes – A Guide to Seahorse Diseases pathologist Martin Belli M.D. writes that strains of Vibrio found to affect seahorses did not grow well in a lab at temperatures lower than 64°F. Seahorse.org members have long advocated seahorse aquarium temperatures no higher than 74°F because Vibrio becomes more aggressive and virulent at higher temperatures. Temperatures in the low 80's seem to increase number of cases, rate of infection, and chance of death.

MORE ON VIBRIO from Felicia's Aquarium Adventures:

http://aquariumadventures.blogspot.com/2010/11/seahorses-and-vibrio.html

http://aquariumadventures.blogspot.com/2010/12/seahorse-tank-keep-it-clean.html

Photos of Adorable Newborn Seahorse Babies (Hippocampus erectus )

Hybrid Limia nigrofasciata x L. vittata

About five years ago I found some Limia nigrofasciata from a Canadian breeder and ordered a group of six. They reproduced more slowly than my guppies, but soon I had a nice sized breeding colony. Last year a sudden catastrophe caused all but one of my Limias to die. The only remaining Limia was a tiny fry that grew into an adult male. I tried to order more from the breeder, but they didn't have any for sale.



I decided to order some Limia vittata from Aquabid.com. All three were fry that ended up being females. They were too young to be pre-hit when I got them, so it's safe to say they were virgins. They interbred with the last remaining L. nigrofasciata male. They drop fewer, larger fry than guppies do. I normally only see one or two at a time. Only one has grown up to be an adult - this female with spots AND stripes!



As you can see from the photos, she more closely resembles her father, the Humpbacked Limia. When she was a young fry, she had stripes but very few spots. As she ages, her spots become more apparent.



While photographing her today, I noticed a tiny addition to my Limia family. It's too soon to tell if this is one of her fry, or one of her younger siblings.



Limia nigrofasciata are called "Humpbacked Limia" because of the fatty deposit mature males develop on the head. They are silver with black vertical stripes. Females have white bellies, while males usually have a yellowish tinge on the lower face and belly. Dominant males develop many dark spots on the dorsal fin, which they use to impress females. Humpbacked Limias are native to the Dominican Republic and Haiti.

Limia vittata, the Cuban Limia, are a silver color with highly variable black spots and splotches. Some individuals may have yellowish spots or splotches as well. Males have a larger dorsal fin than females.

My hybrid Limia may not be as beautiful as either of her parents, and hybridization is generally not recommended. These fish are for my own personal enjoyment, and will not leave my aquarium to become invasive species or to end up in the hands of another hobbyist without knowing their heredity.

Felicia's Saddled Seahorses

My time and hard work has paid off! The baby seahorses are all grown up and ready to live in your tank. http://www.dfs-pet-blog.com/2010/09/baby-seahorses/ How it all began: http://reeftools.com/live/forum/showthread.php?t=240

Wartskin and Painted Anglers

The Wartskin Angler, Antennarius maculatus, is a strange looking fish with even stranger habits. To the untrained eye, this fish more closely resembles a rock or sponge than a fish. Colored specimens perfectly match the toxic sponges in their habitat, while green and brown specimens blend in to the substrate. Instead of swimming, this fish uses foot-like pelvic and pectoral fins to “walk” around slowly on the substrate. When alarmed, an angler can make a (relatively) speedy getaway by pumping large amounts of water into its siphon-like gills, propelling it through the water while using its tail for a rudder.

wartskin angler

The Wartskin Angler Antennarius maculatus is difficult to distinguish from its closest relative, the Painted Angler Antennarius pictus. Wartskin anglers usually have orange margined fins and a colored band that touches the eye. Painted anglers have dark bands on the illicium.

painted angler

Perhaps the most remarkable characteristic of the angler is its illicium (fishing rod) and esca (lure). The illicium is actually its first dorsal spine; the frayed, fleshy esca resembles a tiny bait fish. When a suitable prey item is spotted, the angler holds perfectly still while wiggling the lure. To the intended prey, it looks like a tiny, irresistible, wounded fish. When the prey ventures close enough to investigate what it thinks is a potential meal, the angler strikes with lightning speed, opening its huge mouth and creating a vacuum to suck in its prey.

In captivity, anglers usually require live food items such as saltwater feeder shrimp or small saltwater fish. Goldfish and other freshwater fish are not suitable foods for anglers; they are too high in the wrong type of fat and will quickly lead to health problems. With persistence and patience some anglers may be trained to eat frozen foods from a feeding stick. Small anglers that are still growing need to be fed several times a week, but healthy adult anglers should be fed twice a week. A well balanced diet including silversides, clam, shrimp, squid, and other meaty foods is important.

Because of their sedentary lifestyle, a single angler can be housed in a small aquarium of at least 20 gallons. Stinging corals and anemones may sting these demersal fish, so use caution. Anglers can eat fish up to two times their body length. Angelfish and other algae grazers may accidentally nip at an angler. In large aquariums anglers may be kept with peaceful fish that are at least twice their size, such as boxfish, rabbitfish, sweetlips, and squirrelfish. Most large, aggressive fish like triggers and puffers should be avoided, as they can easily harm an angler. Similar ambush predators like other anglers, scorpionfish, lionfish, and leaf fish of the same size may be kept with an angler. Anglers are sometimes aggressive toward other anglers, and if they are not the same size, a smaller angler may be eaten. To reduce aggression in multiple angler aquariums, it may be necessary to feed them more often.

originally published on reeftools and reefs.com

Brazilian Seahorses

Learn more about Brazilian Seahorses



Galloping Across the Seas by Henrique Caldeira Costa, John Moojen Museum of Zoology, Federal University of Viçosa

translated to English in Google Translator

Seahorse Sleuth

Crinoid Squat Lobster Care

New article on Reeftools.com about Crinoid Squat Lobster aquarium care.

Seahorse medication guide

 Saving RayJay and Ann's seahorse medication guide here for postierity in case the other sites ever go down.SEAHORSE MEDICATIONS AND THEIR DOSING

Seahorse Medication Dosage from Ann on seahorse.org

ACETAZOLAMIDE (immersion) Dosage and Preparation Instructions for a 10g/38L Hospital Tank

Active Ingredient: Acetazolamide

Indication: gas bubble disease, edema, popeye

Brand Name: Diamox

Dose at 250mg per day for 3 days.

Replace the medication in ratio to the amount of water changed daily as needed to control ammonia.

Day 1 of Treatment

• Crush one 250mg tablet into a fine powder.

• Use a mini-blender or small hand-blender to thoroughly mix the powder with about 1 cup of marine water.

• Allow the mixture to set for a few minutes.

• Gently pour off the dissolved portion of the mixture and discard any residue that has settled at the bottom of the container. (Do NOT add the residue to the hospital tank).

• Pour the mixture into a high-flow area of the hospital tank.

Days 2 – 3 of Treatment

• Perform 50% water change.

• Repeat "Day 1" instructions.

ACETAZOLAMIDE (pouch flush) Doseage and Preparation Instructions

Active Ingredient: Acetazolamide

Indication: persistent and recurring pouch emphysema

Brand Name: Diamox

Dose at 0.5mL of a 62.5mg/cup solution.

Supplies: narrow gauge irrigating cannula or narrow gauge IV catheter sleeve, 0.5 or 1mL syringe without needle.

• Mix 62.5mg of Diamox (1/4 of a 250mg tablet) with 1 cup (approx. 237mL) of marine water with specific gravity, pH, and temperature matching that of the aquarium.

• Let the mixture settle.

• Fill the syringe with about 0.5mL of the solution, avoiding the residue that has settled to the bottom of the container.

• Hold the seahorse according to the procedure for pouch evacuations. Insert the catheter sleeve slowly and gently a small way into the pouch opening.

• Inject the solution slowly into the seahorse's pouch. Leave the solution in the pouch.

BETADINE Dosage and Preparation Instructions for Topical Application

Active Ingredient: Povodine Iodine

Indication: open external lesions

• Mix 1 part Betadine solution to 5 parts saltwater marine water.

• If the lesion is on the body, hold the head underwater in a separate bowl of tank water. Drip the solution onto the lesion rather than applying it with a cotton swab which could spread or aggravate the infection. A syringe filled with the solution would allow for ease and additional control over the solutions application. Let dry momentarily and then return the seahorse to its tank. Apply twice a per day.

BINOX (oral) Dosage and Preparation Instructions for a 10g/38L Hospital Tank

Active Ingredient: Nitrofurazone

Indication: bacterial infection

Manufacturer: Jungle Laboratories

Feed adult brine shrimp gut-loaded with the medication to the Seahorse 2x per day for 10 days. Best to use Seachem Focus as a binder.

• Add a small amount of Binox (<1/8 tsp) to one gallon of water and mix thoroughly.

• Place the amount of adult brine shrimp needed for one feeding into the mixture. Leave them in the mixture for at least 2hrs, 4 hrs better.

• Remove the adult brine shrimp from the mixture and add them to the hospital tank.

• Observe the Seahorse to be certain it is eating the adult brine shrimp.

BINOX (immersion) Dosage and Preparation Instructions for a 10g/38L Hospital Tank

Active Ingredient: Nitrofurazone

Indication: bacterial infection

Manufacturer: Jungle Laboratories

Disregard package info concerning water changes and duration of treatment. Dose medication daily for 10 days.

Replace the medication in ratio to the amount of water changed daily as needed to control ammonia. This product is best administered by feeding it to adult live brine shrimp, then in turn, feeding those animals to the Seahorse. If this is not an option, it may be administered as follows.

DAY 1 of Treatment

• Thoroughly mix 1/2 tsp of Binox with about 1 cup of marine water.

• Pour the mixture into a high-flow area of the hospital tank.

DAYS 2 – 10 of Treatment

• Perform a 50% water change.

• Thoroughly mix 1/2 tsp of Binox with about 1 cup of marine water.

• Pour the mixture into a high-flow area of the hospital tank.

BIOBANDAGE POWDER Dosage and Preparation Instructions for Topical Application

Active Ingredient: Neomycin Sulfate

Indication: open external lesions

Note: Shake vigorously before use to evenly distribute the dry ingredients that may have partially segregated during shipping. Never handle fish with dry hands, always sanitize hands before and after handling. Gloves are recommended.

Supplies: Have a pint of clean tap or bottled water ready before proceeding.

• Catch the seahorse in your hand allowing it to curl its tail around your finger and settle down before starting. Raise the seahorse so the damaged area is out of the water.

• Working quickly and carefully, first clean the wound with a clean cotton-tip swab, cotton ball or paper toweling wrapped around a finger.

• Partially dry the wound taking care to not damage adjacent healthy skin.

• Rinse the cleaned area with the tap or bottled water, then pat (not rub) the rinsed area with a dry swab, cotton ball, or paper towel to remove excess water. Please note that the cleaned area MUST remain moist.

• Hold the bottle of Bio-Bandage Powder at about a 45° angle to the seahorse's body and puff enough powder onto the cleaned area to completely cover the wound and some of the surrounding tissue. DO NOT put more powder onto the area than is needed to form a flat patch. DO NOT create a mound of powder . DO NOT allow the tip to get wet or come in contact with fish's seahorse's body.

• Gently lower your hand holding the treated seahorse into the water and allow the patch to become completely wet (hydrated).

• Allow the seahorse to rest in your hand with little movement to assure that the gelled patch has time to bond with the treated area as long as possible.

• Apply at least every 24 hours as needed.

BIOBANDAGE GEL Dosage and Preparation Instructions for Topical Application

Active Ingredient: Neomycin Sulfate

Indication: open external lesions

• Working quickly and carefully, first clean the wound with a clean cotton-tip swab, cotton ball or paper towel wrapped around a finger; partially dry the wound taking care to not damage adjacent healthy skin.

• Apply enough gel to the cleaned and dried area to completely cover the wound and some surrounding tissue.

• Gently return the treated seahorse to the water; allow the seahorse to rest with little movement to assure that the mass of the gel stays in contact with the wound for as long as possible.

Please note that the seahorse should not be held out of the water more than 30 to 60 seconds.

(Non-air breathing fish such as seahorses begin suffocating as soon as they are removed from the water). It is necessary to work quickly and efficiently, and it may be necessary for two or more people to assist.

ENROFLOXACIN Oral Dosage and Preparation Instructions

Active Ingredient: Enrofloxacin

Indication: bacterial infection

Brandnames: Baytril

The following information is based on the most commonly available tablet sizes for Enrofloxacin/Baytril available in the US and abroad and an average sized seahorse of approximately 10 grams. Moderators are available in the Emergency and Disease and Treatment forums to assist when working with different tablet strengths and/or when the exact weight of the seahorse is known.

Tube feed the seahorse 0.1mg of Enrofloxacin once a day for 10 days.

Day 1 – 10 of Treatment

• Crush 1/4 of a 68mg or 50mg tablet into a fine powder.

• Use a mini-blender or small hand-blender to thoroughly mix the powder with marine water. Mix 1/4 of a 68mg tablet with 85mL of marine water. Mix 1/4 of a 50mg tablet with 62.5mL of marine water.

• Fill a small syringe with 0.5mL of the solution.

• Tube feed the seahorse according to the instructions in the tube feeding drawer.

• Throw out the unused Enrofloxacin and marine water solution. You will need to make new solution daily because Enrofloxacin breaks down quickly in saltwater causing it to become completely ineffective by the next day.

Important Notes:

Enrofloxacin is available only by prescription from a veterinarian.

Enrofloxacin International Version – Tablets are produced in 15mg, 50gm, 150mg, & a 2.5% injectable solution

Enrofloxacin US Version – Tablets are produced in 22.7mg, 68mg, 136mg, & a 2.27% injectable solution

If you are able to ascertain the exact weight of your seahorse you may want to adjust the dosage as necessary to get the most benefit from the medication. In such an instance you would dose Enrofloxacin at 0.01mg of the medication per gram of body weight. A veterinarian who works regularly with small exotics will be familiar with the proper way to dilute injectable Enrofloxacin solution to fit your needs.

FENBENDAZOLE (granules) Dosage and Preparation Instructions for Deworming

Active Ingredient: Fenbendazole

Indication: worms and other internal parasites

Brand Names: Panacur, Safe-Guard

One day each week, feed two meals of adult brine shrimp gut-loaded with Fenbendazole to the Seahorse. Repeat for a total of 3 weeks.

• Purchase Fenbendazole granules available as 1gm packets.

• Thoroughly mix a single 1gm packet (~1/4tsp) into one gallon (~4 liters) of water. Please note that the granules will not completely dissolve.

• This mixture will produce 222mg of Fenbendazole per gallon of water.

• Place the amount of adult brine shrimp needed for one feeding into the mixture. Leave them in the mixture for at least 2hrs.

• Remove the adult brine shrimp from the mixture and add them to the quarantine tank.

• Observe the Seahorse to be certain it is eating the adult brine shrimp.

FENBENDAZOLE (liquid) Dosage and Preparation Instructions for Deworming

Active Ingredient: 10% Fenbendazole

Indication: worms and other internal parasites

Brand Names: Panacur, Safe-Guard

One day each week, feed two meals of adult brine shrimp gut-loaded with Fenbendazole to the Seahorse. Repeat for a total of 3 weeks.

• Add ~250mg (2ml or ~1/2 tsp) of the Fenbendazole mixture to one gallon (~4 liters) of water and mix thoroughly.

• Place the amount of adult brine shrimp needed for one feeding into the mixture. Leave them in the mixture for at least 2hrs.

• Remove the adult brine shrimp from the mixture and add them to the quarantine tank.

• Observe the Seahorse to be certain it is eating the adult brine shrimp.

FENBENDAZOLE (granules) Dosage and Preparation Instructions Hydroids

Active Ingredient: Fenbendazole

Indication: hydroids

Brand Names: Panacur, Safe-Guard

Note: This treatment is ONLY recommended for Seahorse fry nurseries and Dwarf Seahorse tanks that do NOT contain invertebrates/corals. (Nassarius sp. snails have been known to survive treatment).

Residual effects of this medication may make the tank inhospitable for invertebrates for up to two years following treatment.

Dose at 1mg per gallon for light infestations.

Dose 2mg per gallon for heavy infestations.

Repeat every other day for three treatments.

• Purchase Fenbendazole granules available as 1gm packets.

• Thoroughly mix a single 1gm packet into 100ml of water. (100ml is equal to a little less than 1/2 cup). Please note that the granules will not completely dissolve.

• This mixture will produce 2.22mg of Fenbendazole per ml.

FENBENDAZOLE (liquid) Dosage and Preparation Instructions for Hydroids

Active Ingredient: 10% Fenbendazole suspension

Indication: hydroids

Brand Names: Panacur, Safe-Guard

Note: This treatment is ONLY recommended for Seahorse fry nurseries and Dwarf Seahorse tanks that do NOT contain invertebrates/corals. (Nassarius sp. snails have been known to survive treatment).

Residual effects of this medication may make the tank inhospitable for invertebrates for up to two years following treatment.

Dose 1mg per gallon (0.1 ml per 10 gal) for light infestations.

Dose 2mg per gallon (0.2 ml per 10 gal) for heavy infestations.

Repeat every other day for three treatments.

FORMALIN Short-Term BATH Dosage and Preparation Instructions

Active Ingredient: 37% Formaldehyde

Indication: external parasites

Brand Names: Formalin, Formalin-MS

Notes: 1. Do NOT use Formalin that has a white residue at the bottom of the bottle. White residue indicates the presence of Paraformaldehyde which is very toxic.

2. "Formalin 3" by Kordon contains only 3% Formaldehyde. Dosing instructions will need to be modified if using this product.

• Fill a small tank with aged, aerated, dechlorinated marine water. Match the pH, temperature, and salinity to that of the tank the Seahorse is currently in.

• Add an artifical hitch and 1–2 vigorously bubbling airlines. Formalin reduces dissolved O2 so heavy aeration is required.

• Add 1ml/cc of Formalin per one gallon (3.8 liters) of tank water. Allow several minutes for the Formalin to disperse.

• Place the Seahorse into the dip water for 45–60 minutes unless it is showing signs of an adverse reaction. If the Seahorse cannot tolerate the Formalin dip, immediately move it back to the hospital tank.

• Observe the Seahorse for 24hrs for signs of improvement.

FORMALIN Long-Term BATH (adults and fry) Dosage and Preparation Instructions

Active Ingredient: 37% Formaldehyde

Indication: external parasites

Brand Names: Formalin, Formalin-MS

Dose at 2 drops per gallon, or 1ml per 10g, every other day for 3 treatments. Replace the medication in ratio to the amount of water changed daily as needed to control ammonia.

Notes: 1. Do NOT use Formalin that has a white residue at the bottom of the bottle. White residue indicates the presence of Paraformaldehyde which is very toxic.

2. "Formalin 3" by Kordon contains only 3% Formaldehyde. Dosing instructions will need to be modified if using this product.

When using 3% Formalin, dose 10 times what is needed for 37% formalin. Use 20 drops per gallon, or 1mL per ONE gallon.

• Mix the appropriate amount of Formalin with ~1 cup of marine water.

• Pour the mixture into a high-flow area of the hospital tank or fry nursery.

FURAN-2 (oral) Dosage and Preparation Instructions for a 10g/38L Hospital Tank

Active Ingredient: Nitrofurazone and Furazolidone

Indication: bacterial infection

Feed adult brine shrimp gut-loaded with the medication to the Seahorse 2x per day for 10 days.

• Add 1/4 to 1/2 packet of Furan-2 to one gallon of water and mix thoroughly.

• Place the amount of adult brine shrimp needed for one feeding into the mixture. Leave them in the mixture for at least 2hrs.

• Remove the adult brine shrimp from the mixture and add them to the hospital tank.

• Observe the Seahorse to be certain it is eating the adult brine shrimp.

FURAN-2 (immersion) Dosage and Preparation Instructions for a 10g/38L Hospital Tank

Active Ingredient: Nitrofurazone and Furazolidone

Indication: bacterial infection

Disregard package info concerning water changes and duration of treatment. Dose medication daily for 10 days. Replace the medication in ratio to the amount of water changed daily as needed to control ammonia.

This product is best administered by feeding it to adult live brine shrimp, then in turn, feeding those animals to the Seahorse. If this is not an option, it may be administered as follows.

DAY 1 of Treatment

• Thoroughly mix one packet of Furan-2 with about 1 cup of marine water.

• Pour the mixture into a high-flow area of the hospital tank.

DAYS 2 – 10 of Treatment

• Perform a 50% water change.

• Thoroughly mix one packet of Furan-2 with about 1 cup of marine water.

• Pour the mixture into a high-flow area of the hospital tank.

FURANASE (oral) Dosage and Preparation Instructions for a 10g/38L Hospital Tank

Active Ingredient: Nifurpirinol

Indication: bacterial infection

Feed adult brine shrimp gut-loaded with the medication to the Seahorse 2x per day for 10 days.

• Dissolve 1/4 to 1/2 tablet of Furanase in 1 gallon of water and mix thoroughly.

• Place the amount of adult brine shrimp needed for one feeding into the mixture. Leave them in the mixture for at least 2hrs.

• Remove the adult brine shrimp from the mixture and add them to the hospital tank.

• Observe the Seahorse to be certain it is eating the adult brine shrimp.

FURANASE (immersion) Dosage and Preparation Instructions for a 10g/38L Hospital Tank

Active Ingredient: Nifurpirinol

Indication: bacterial infection

Dose medication daily for 10 days.

Replace the medication in ratio to the amount of water changed daily as needed to control ammonia.

This product is best administered by feeding it to adult live brine shrimp, then in turn feeding those animals to the Seahorse. If this is not an option, it may be administered as follows.

DAY 1 of Treatment

• Dissolve 2 tablets of Furanase in about 1 cup of marine water and mix thoroughly.

• Pour the mixture into a high-flow area of the hospital tank.

DAYS 2 – 10 of Treatment

• Perform a 50% water change.

• Dissolve 1 tablet of Furanase in about 1 cup of marine water and mix thoroughly.

• Pour the mixture into a high-flow area of the hospital tank.

MARACYN-TWO (saltwater version) Dosage and Preparation Instructions for a 10g/38L Hospital Tank

Active Ingredient: Minocycline

Indication: bacterial infection

Disregard package info concerning duration of treatment. Dose medication daily for 10 days.

Replace the medication in ratio to the amount of water changed daily as needed to control ammonia.

Note: There are two versions of Maracyn-Two. One is marked "Saltwater" and one is marked "Freshwater". The difference in the two is the amount of medication each packet contains. The saltwater version contains 20mg Minocycline/packet whereas the freshwater version contains 10 mg Minocycline/packet.

DAY 1 of Treatment

• Mix 2 packets of Maracyn-Two with ~1 cup of marine water.

• Pour the mixture into a high-flow area of the hospital tank.

DAYS 2 – 10 of Treatment

• Perform a 50% water change.

• Mix 1 packet of Maracyn-Two with ~1 cup of marine water.

• Pour the mixture into a high-flow area of the hospital tank.

METHYLENE BLUE Dosage and Preparation Instructions for a 10g/38L Hospital Tank

Active Ingredient: 2.303% solution Chloride Salt of Methylene Blue

Indication: ammonia burns, nitrite poisoning, cyanide poisoning

Dose at 1tsp (~5ml) for 3 – 5 days.

Note: Methylene Blue will stain artificial hitches, decor, live rock, etc., and the silicone sealant in aquariums.

Replace the medication in ratio to the amount of water changed daily as needed to control ammonia.

METHYLENE BLUE DIP Dosage and Preparation Instructions

Active Ingredient: 2.303% solution Chloride Salt of Methylene Blue

Indication: nitrite poisoning, cyanide poisoning, some fungus, some external parasites

Dose at 5tsp (~24ml) per 3 gallons (~11 liters).

Note: Methylene Blue will stain artificial hitches, decor, live rock, etc., and the silicone sealant in aquariums.

• Fill a tank/container with 3 gallons (~11 liters) of aged, well aerated, dechlorinated marine water. Match the pH, temperature, and salinity to that of the tank the Seahorse is currently in.

• Add 5tsp (~24ml) of Methylene Blue to the tank/container. Mix well.

• Place the Seahorse into the dip water for NO longer than 10 SECONDS.

• Remove the Seahorse from the dip water and place it in a hospital tank.

METRONIDAZOLE Dosage and Preparation Instructions for Deworming

Active Ingredient: Metronidazole

Indication: flagellates and other internal parasites

Brand Names: Metro+, Metro-Pro, Metronidazole, Metro-MS, Flagyl. Flagyl is available by prescription from your local veterinarian.

One day each week, feed two meals of adult brine shrimp gut-loaded with Metronidazole to the Seahorse. Repeat for a total of 3 weeks.

• If using tablets, crush one tablet into a fine powder. If using powder, dose 1/4tsp.

• Add the Metronidazole to one gallon (~4 liters) of water and mix thoroughly.

• Place the amount of adult brine shrimp needed for one feeding into the mixture. Leave them in the mixture for at least 2hrs.

• Remove the adult brine shrimp from the mixture and add them to the quarantine tank. • Observe the Seahorse to be certain it is eating the adult brine shrimp.

NEOMYCIN Dosage and Preparation Instructions for a 10g/38L Hospital Tank (when used alone for severe infections)

Active Ingredient:

Indication: bacterial infection

Brandnames: National Fish Pharmaceuticals, AgriLabs. (Biosol, Neomix, and NeoMed can sometimes be found at feed supply stores).

Maintain a level of 1250mg per day for 10 days UNLESS there are signs kidney problems (edema/bloating). If the Seahorse is symptomatic for kidney failure reduce all dosage amounts by 1/2.

Note: Neomycin is available in both liquid and powder forms. For AgriLabs liquid Neomycin 6ml per 10g is equal to ~1250mg.

Replace the medication in ratio to the amount of water changed daily as needed to control ammonia.

DAY 1 of Treatment

• Mix 1250mg of Neomycin with ~1 cup of marine water.

• Pour the mixture into a high-flow area of the hospital tank.

DAYS 2 – 10 of Treatment

• Perform a 50% water change.

• Mix 625mg of Neomycin with ~1 cup of marine water.

• Pour the mixture into a high-flow area of the hospital tank.

NEOMYCIN Dosage and Preparation Instructions for a 10g/38L Hospital Tank (when used concurrently with Triple Sulfate)

Active Ingredient: Neomycin

Indication: bacterial infection

Brandnames: National Fish Pharmaceuticals, AgriLabs. (Biosol, Neomix, and NeoMed can sometimes be found at feed supply stores).

Maintain a level of 400mg per day for 10 days

Note: Neomycin is available in both liquid and powder forms. For AgriLabs liquid Neomycin 2ml per 10g is equal to ~400mg.

Replace the medication in ratio to the amount of water changed daily as needed to control ammonia.

DAY 1 of Treatment

• Mix 400mg of Neomycin with ~1 cup of marine water.

• Pour the mixture into a high-flow area of the hospital tank.

DAYS 2 – 10 of Treatment

• Perform a 50% water change.

• Mix 200mg of Neomycin with ~1 cup of marine water.

• Pour the mixture into a high-flow area of the hospital tank.

NEOSPORIN Dosage and Preparation Instructions for Topical Application

Active Ingredient: Neomycin Sulfate

Indication: open external lesions.

Brandnames: Neosporin and generic triple antibiotic ointments are available at pharmacies and discount stores.

Note: Please do NOT use ointments that list Pramoxine HCl or other pain relievers in their ingredients. • If the lesion is on the body, hold the head underwater and gently apply the ointment with a cotton swab. Try not to disturb the wound with the applicator. • A thin coating is enough. • Apply twice per day . Note: Do not use ointments that list Pramoxine HCl or other pain relievers in their ingredients

NITROFURAZONE POWDER (oral) Dosage and Preparation Instructions for a 10g/38L Hospital Tank

Active Ingredient: Nitrofurazone

Indication: bacterial infection

Manufacturer: National Fish Pharmaceuticals

Feed adult brine shrimp gut-loaded with the medication to the Seahorse 2x per day for 10 days.

• Add a tiny amount (<1/8 tsp) of Nitrofurazone Powder to one gallon of water and mix thoroughly.

• Place the amount of adult brine shrimp needed for one feeding into the mixture. Leave them in the mixture for at least 2hrs.

• Remove the adult brine shrimp from the mixture and add them to the hospital tank.

• Observe the Seahorse to be certain it is eating the adult brine shrimp.

NITROFURAZONE POWDER (immersion) Dosage and Preparation Instructions for a 10g/38L Hospital Tank

Active Ingredient: Nitrofurazone

Indication: bacterial infection

Manufacturer: National Fish Pharmaceuticals

Replace the medication in ratio to the amount of water changed daily as needed to control ammonia.

This product is best administered by feeding it to adult live brine shrimp, then in turn, feeding those animals to the Seahorse. If this is not an option, it may be administered as follows.

DAY 1 of Treatment

• Thoroughly mix 1/8 tsp of Nitrofurazone Powder with about 1 cup of marine water.

• Pour the mixture into a high-flow area of the hospital tank.

DAYS 2 – 10 of Treatment

• Perform a 50% water change. • Thoroughly mix 1/8 tsp of Nitrofurazone Powder with about 1 cup of marine water.

• Pour the mixture into a high-flow area of the hospital tank.

PRAZIQUANTEL Dosage and Preparation Instructions for Deworming

Active Ingredient: Praziquantel

Indication: worms and other internal parasites

Brand Names: PraziPro, Praz-Tastic, Praziquantel

One day each week, feed two meals of adult brine shrimp gut-loaded with Praziquantel to the Seahorse. Repeat for a total of 3 weeks.

• Add 10ml (~2tsp) of Praziquantel to one gallon (~4 liters) of water and mix thoroughly.

• Place the amount of adult brine shrimp needed for one feeding into the mixture. Leave them in the mixture for at least 2hrs.

• Remove the adult brine shrimp from the mixture and add them to the quarantine tank.

• Observe the Seahorse to be certain it is eating the adult brine shrimp.

TRIPLE SULFATE (Sulfa/Sulpha) Dosage and Preparation Instructions for a 10g/38L Hospital Tank

Active Ingredient: Sodium Sulfathiazole, Sodium Sulfamethazine, and Sodium Sulfacetamide

Indication: bacterial infection

Brand Names: Triple Sulfa, Triple Sulpha, Trisulfa

Dose per package instructions for 10 days. (Normally ~380mg per day for 10 days).

Disregard package info concerning water changes.

Replace the medication in ratio to the amount of water changed daily as needed to control ammonia.

DAY 1 of Treatment

• Thoroughly mix the medication with about 1 cup of marine water.

• Pour the mixture into a high-flow area of the hospital tank.

DAYS 2 – 10 of Treatment

• Perform a 50% water change.

• Thoroughly mix the medication with about 1 cup of marine water.

• Pour the mixture into a high-flow area of the hospital tank.

WOUND CONTROL Dosage and Preparation Instructions for Topical Application

Active Ingredient: Merbromin

Indication: open external lesions.

Note: Wound Control is a product of Aquatronics, which has since gone out of business. However, this product has no expiration date, so although it is difficult to find, it may be used when located.

• If the lesion is on the body, hold the head underwater in a separate bowl of tank water. Drip the solution onto the lesion rather than applying it with a cotton swab which could spread or aggravate the infection. A syringe filled with the solution would ease this process and allow for added control over its application. Let dry momentarily and then return seahorse to their tank.

• Place 1 – 2 drops directly on the wound.

• Apply twice per day.

My Seahorse Had Babies!

Juniper is a daddy! After the death of his mate, Ellis, he and Hoover have formed a very close bond. I was worried that they wouldn't because they weren't interested in each other before.

On March 15th, I found about 30 or 40 tiny baby seahorses in my aquarium's sump. Juniper is a very large seahorse, so he probably had closer to 200 babies, but most of them were probably anthias and Brotulid food. I took the survivors to work and have been trying my hand at fry raising. I have the best mentors I could possibly have helping me, though. My boss is a clownfish raising expert, and I've been getting advice from the folks at Seahorse.org. Honestly, though, I'm shocked they are doing as well as they are. I'm really excited, but trying not to get my hopes up too high. The day after he had the babies, I saw Juniper and Hoover doing another egg transfer, so there should be more babies in our future.

More pictures and updates here!

Flashing Tilefish Care

Check out this article about caring for Flashing Tilefish on ReefTools.com

My Flashing Tilefish, Blinky, is doing great, by the way! (That's him in the picture).

Tank Crash

I've been putting off writing this blog for a few weeks. I experienced my worst aquarium nightmare over Christmas break. We were traveling a lot to visit relatives, and I wasn't giving my aquariums as much attention as I should have. We're not sure what caused the crash, but one day when I came home, I knew immediately something was terribly wrong. Three out of five of my seahorses were laying dead on the floor of the tank, and the fish that were left were breathing hard, discolored, and obviously stressed. I was quick to blame it on my sea cucumber, Pentacta anceps, but I'm not certain. I estimate that whatever disaster struck, happened right before I came home that day. The fish that died looked as though they had just died, and the ammonia was still at zero ppm.

We quickly did a 50% water change and put a pound of carbon in the filtration. Within a half hour, the fish that survived started to perk up. All in all, the crash could've been much worse. I lost most of my small gobies, 3 of my seahorses (Kuiter, Ellis, and Debelius), my Yellow-fin Flasher Wrasse, and my squat lobsters. All of the other inverts were fine, in fact, my Sun coral was open while all this was going on. My two seahorses Juniper and Hoover, Flashing Tilefish, and all 3 of my shrimp gobies survived (with their shrimp friends), Curious wormfish, 3 Brotulids, and Yellow Eye Anthias survived. Amazingly, one tiny red Eviota goby also survived. The Lionfish and Coral Croucher are in another tank.

I was most devastated by the loss of my seahorses. Seahorses have so much personality, they are truly pets and can't be "replaced" when they are lost. I miss Ellis, Debelius, and especially little Kuiter hitching on my fingers when I put my hand in the tank. I'll be getting a new, larger 120 gallon aquarium soon, so I'll wait to get any more seahorses until after that tank is set up and doing well.


Kuiter


Ellis


Debelius